07/07/2005versione stampabilestampainvia paginainvia



The small town of Crawford is Bush’s emblem of America
From our correspondent
Alessandro Ursic
 
Five grain silos, two service stations, a track for goods trains, and a bar/restaurant. Crawford is all here, a tiny dot in the middle of the map of boundless Texas. More than a town, it is a crossroads between two state highways with a few houses nearby. Nonetheless, the 750 in habitants of this non-place can legitimately say that they have a neighbour who is the most powerful man in the world. Since 1999 George W. Bush owns a 6.4-sq. km ranch where he spends a good part of his free time, above all in the summer. Having smelled business, the managers of the four local shops started selling souvenirs. And so, today Crawford is a concentrate of cowboy pride and post-September 11th American patriotism. If the current president of the United States doesn’t actually appeal to you, this is not the right place for you.  
 
Political pilgrimage. But obviously it is for many others. Every year throngs of thousands come all the way to Crawford hopping to see Bush and his abode. To no avail: the ranch – which the locals have renamed “the Western White House” – is isolated and all you can see from the road is the roof half-concealed by the trees. When he’s there, the president almost never ventures into town, and on those few occasions when he does, he certainly doesn’t walk around alone. “Before they let him come in, the secret service agents combs the restaurant in search of explosives, they frisk everybody and shut down the petrol pumps,” said the hulk of a boy behind the cash register at Coffee Station, the only place that serves food in Crawford. Despite the strictness of the controls, Bush never disappoints his supporters during his public appearances. The last time he ate here, he signed autographs for half an hour and posed in dozens of photographs with waiters, town residents and tourists.
 
Visits from around the world. Yep, tourists. On this sunny day of June with the sun straight up and a temperature of 35°C, not many are to be seen. Nevertheless, it isn’t the heat that is keeping them away. “You should see how many there are in August, when they know that Bush is here on vacation,” said a souvenir retailer. In taking a look at the guest book, we see that a large majority are Americans and supporters of the president, but foreigners and denigrators are not lacking. “We’ve had customers from Thailand and New Zealand,” a Coffee Station waitress explained.  There are even a few Italian names, the last two dating to just a few days ago. And amidst the many compliments made to the president, there are also criticisms and accusations. Recently someone wrote, “Bush lied about the arms of mass destruction” and “Nobody died when Clinton lied,” two phrases repeated everywhere by Democrat sympathisers prior to the elections.
 
Bush country. In spite of the onlookers from abroad and a few Democrats who came here to hurt themselves, Crawford however remains a type of paradise for Bush fans. You can buy everything in the souvenir shops, from a talking president doll to American flags, from life-size pasteboard cut-outs of Bush to pins commemorating the victory at the polls, from cups to baseball caps. The stickers celebrate the president and his leadership in the war against terrorism: “Do you want to stay free? Vote Bush”, “Freedom shall be defended”, “The right answer: George W.”, up to a more threatening “America: love it or leave it”. Besides, many American tourists in Crawford say they vote for Bush the man, because “he’s a good man”, “he’s a good Christian”, “unlike other politicians, he does what he says”. And one of the virtues that seem to be most highly appreciated is his firmness. “I think we were lucky to have him as president in a difficult time like September 11th”, said the owner of Yellow Rose, the most popular souvenir shop.
 
Crawford Peace HouseThe exception. Kay Lucas, who lives 30 kilometres away, probably would not agree. The woman comes to town often to look after Crawford Peace House, a house bought two years ago by a pacifist militant and turned into a dissident centre. Snubbed by the locals and lately not used much, Peace House more than anything else is used as a point of reference for the media and anti-Bush demonstrators when there are anti-war protests. The last time, in February, local police arrested five demonstrators. According to several witnesses, one official stated that wearing pins bearing writing against the president was equivalent to organising a demonstration without receiving authorisation from the law enforcement agencies.   
 
All for one? Aside from the anomalous presence of Peace House, the sensation is that everyone here is a fan of the president, but obviously that is not the case. Crawford is part of an electoral district where the Republican representative last November won the battle for a seat in Congress by the skin of his teeth. “I vote Democrat, and I don’t like Bush,” said Lola, an elderly lady behind the counter of another store. “And I’m not the only one. Lots of people will proclaim their love for Bush because it’s better.” It’s not a coincidence that since George W. arrived at the White House, this small Texas town has put on new make-up with the tourists’ money. Service stations and shops have been enlarged and renovated. Even a bank has sprung up. But there are no hotels - none have been built. “It’s probably because in any case Bush can no longer be president,” Lola noted. That’s true: he can not exceed two mandates, and in 2008 the “Eastern” White House will have a new tenant. And perhaps Crawford will have one more permanent resident.